Mangalore to Gokarna – NH17

Today our plan was to go along the west coast from Mangalore and reach as far as possible. We had breakfast at our hotel Poonja International, and left for Ullal beach. Someshwar beach, Ullal is around 13 km to south of Mangalore. – You can take a turn from Mahaveer circle of Mangalore - We had gone in the morning before 10 am, and there were not many people around. We could not find the main entrance to the beach, however we did find a parking place for our car and an offside entrance to the beach. The road is very small and fishermen’s houses surround the road towards the beach. The backside of their houses overlook the beach. We could see the locals cleaning their net in preparation for the day.
Empty bottles, plastic was thrown across the beach. And this place was not even where the tourists would usually come, so I can imagine how the main entrance beach would look like. The tide was really high, and my feeling is that the water was deep even towards the shore. The vast ocean, length of white sandy beach and palms at the end of the beach - overall it made a nice picture. Far away we could see some boats, maybe locals on their way to catch some fish.
From Ullal, we took the NH17 road and started our way towards Udupi. Our plan was to visit Surathkal beach on our way – this is supposed to be the most cleanest in Karavali, however Mangalore’s “best kept secret” remained a secret. We had assumed that since Surathkal hosts the regional college of engineering, it would be easy enough to find. However, I was amazed, when we went on the highway and realized that the place which should have at around 17 kms from Mangalore, never came. I do not think we missed out any sign which mentioned Surathkal, but guess better luck for you guys out there having out heart set out for that beach.
Our next halt was Kaup beach, around 35 kms from Mangalore. The beach is considered very notorious for its huge waves and statistics for claiming lives of the people who venture out to dare the sea. The way to the beach is very properly marked with Karnataka state tourism boards, but beware of the 1km sign of Kaup, which is located exactly at the place where you need to take the left turn. The turn itself is very small, so keep looking out for the signs. Kaup beach,like Ullal, is badly strewn with chips packets, soda bottles and whatnots. The only soothing thing you get to see is the ocean, which never ceases to amaze me. I can go to every beach and still not get bored looking at the ocean, looking at the small sand cards running helter-skelter, though I admit I am scared of them. The sandy beach is obstructed by a 130 ft high lighthouse, emitting light for 26 nautical miles.
We walked along the beach for some time, and when it started getting too hot for us, started for our onwards journey.
Udupi is around 15 kms from Kaup. It is impossible to miss the grand entrance of the town. A set of celestial divine figures adron the threshold of the town. And you feel as if the temples are beckoning you on. The name Udupi means Lord shiva who wears the moon and it also means a place situated on the edge of rice fields. We went in search of the Krishna temple, and after a long set of directions and roundabouts, we finally reached the temple. There are three temples on the Car street – Chandramoulishwar, Anantheshwar and Krishna temple. The Krishna temple has the most biggest queue of all. A shade has been created in the form of a queue to provide protection from sun for the devotees. We were not even able to see the end of the queue and decided not to go inside the temple. After all, god is omnipresent. Based on the recommendation of the outlook traveller book, we ate Outlook Masala dosa in Mitra samaj restaurant near the temple. Let me warn you, the dosa is almost 3 feet long so beware before ordering it. Our plans of eating gadbad went for a toss, since we were full after eating and wasting the dosa.
After having our lunch at a right time of 1 pm, we decided to move forth in our journey.
Next to Udupi is Malpe beach, you can go to St Mary’s Island from a ferry here. We skipped this part of the tour, and went towards Murudeshwar.
Driving on the NH17 highway watching the ocean waves is a delight in itself. Best of this is in Maravanthe. You cannot miss this stretch of the road on the highway. Jagged rocks and rushing waves of the Arabian sea to your left and Sowparnika river’s calm waters to your right complement each other in a beautiful way. We stopped here for awhile and the picture has been etched in my memory like a photo.
Going towards Murudeshwar, around 35 kms from Maravanthe, the ocean was not visible but instead the view was replaced by lush green fields and hills.The 500 ft Shiva statue is visible from the road and you know that you have reached your destination. Parking is available freely and easily at the base of the statue, once you can cross the thongs of people below waiting to go to the beach. RN Shettyland has built a theme park of mythological statues at this place. The park depicts Arjuna sitting in his chariot and Krishna explaining him about why war is required. On one side, is Ganaptu sitting with a acharya (unfortunately I do not know which). At the front is Ravana and behind it is the towering statue of Lord Shiva and Nandi in front of it. The status of Lord Shiva is mentioned to be the tallest idol of Lord shiva in the world. The details of the statue have been carved amazingly. At such a point, I marvel at the work of the artists who made this statue, rather than the person who asked to build the statue. There is a temple at the top and also a small cave created which depicts some statues and the story of how Ravana, after obtaining the atmalinga, giving invincibility, was tricked by Ganesh disguised as a young boy, and the atmalinga was entrenched in the ground at Gokarna – Mahabaleshwara.
After taking a last look at the towering statue, we decided to get on with our journey and reach Gokarna.
The access road to Gokarna from NH17 is not marked by the karnataka tourism boards. So, once you have reached around 62 kms, start asking for directions from the locals. Thankfully, almost all the highway from Murudeshwar goes via small towns and villages and the locals are ready to help out.
Today being 25th Dec, a holiday, we were not able to find place to stay in any hotels. Ultimately, we found a place called Nimmu house, near Gokarna Main beach. We got a room at 1200/- for the night. The place is good to stay, but does not serve food. However there is a restaurant nearby to have dinner, lunch or snacks.
Supratim, after a long journey is tired and I have thankfully completed my second day travelogue successfully.
Visting Gokarna ….